Stress-less Cheese Soufflé
FROM OPEN KITCHEN
Making a soufflé isn’t as tricky as you might think, given all the dire warnings (Don’t you dare open the oven! Avoid loud noises!) that usually come with recipes for them. In fact, you can assemble a soufflé many hours ahead of time, as long as you put the soufflé mixture in the dish it will be baked in and stick it in the fridge (yes, really!). Also, let’s manage our expectations of loftiness, and let’s be OK with a slightly sunken soufflé. Your guests will think you are a real genius pulling this thing out of the oven and serving them scoops of piping hot cheese heaven. Making it in a flat baking dish means it doesn’t have so far to fall, and also creates a lot more surface area to brown, turning it into something a little different and more casual than the classic toque-like affair. You can add any herbs you like to this soufflé, or even finely chopped cooked spinach. I like to serve this for brunch, lunch, or a light supper with a Simple but Exceptional Green Salad (page 238). I still advise you to time this so you can serve it immediately upon removing from the oven for the best effect.
SERVES 4
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for the dish (softened)
Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for the dish
2 shallots, minced
¼ cup all-purpose flour
1 cup whole milk
1 heaping cup grated Gruyère cheese (about 3 ounces)
A few gratings of nutmeg
Big pinch of cayenne pepper
½ teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
4 large egg yolks, at room temperature
6 large egg whites, at room temperature
Pinch of cream of tartar
Generously butter a small (9 x 7-inch, 1-quart) baking dish and dust with Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, tapping out any excess.
Heat the butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the shallots and cook until translucent, 4 to 6 minutes. Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 to 3 minutes more. Slowly whisk in the milk. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring frequently; it will be very thick. Add the Gruyère cheese and stir until melted. Season with the nutmeg, cayenne, salt, and pepper to taste—it should be overseasoned at this point, as you will be diluting the flavor considerably with the eggs. Whisk in the egg yolks one at a time. Transfer to a large bowl and keep warm by covering with foil and keeping in a warm place.
In the bowl of a stand mixer (you also can do this by hand with a bowl and whisk or a hand mixer), beat the egg whites with the cream of tartar until stiff peaks form. Be careful not to overbeat—it still should look creamy and smooth, not crumbly and dry. Whisk about one third of the whites into the cheese sauce to lighten the mixture, then fold the remaining whites in until well combined. Transfer to the prepared baking dish and chill until needed, unless you are baking right away.
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Place the baking dish on a baking sheet and bake for 5 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 375°F and bake until puffed and golden and not too jiggly in the center, 15 to 20 minutes longer.
TIMING TIPS:
Up to 4 hours ahead: Make the soufflé mixture and chill—cover carefully with plastic wrap.
30 minutes ahead: Bake the soufflé.
